LEVEL 2
Skin Concern Care Guide
Many people struggle with dark spots and dullness, but are you vaguely thinking "I just need to use brightening cosmetics"? For effective care, you first need to understand how melanin is produced and how it accumulates in the skin.
Melanin is produced through the following pathway. First, the amino acid tyrosine is converted to DOPA (dihydroxyphenylalanine) by the enzyme tyrosinase. DOPA is further oxidized to DOPA quinone, and ultimately becomes melanin polymer. Since tyrosinase acts as the rate-limiting enzyme in this process, many brightening ingredients target tyrosinase inhibition.
Melanin is synthesized in vesicles called "melanosomes" within melanocytes, then transferred to surrounding keratinocytes. Through this transfer, melanin spreads throughout the epidermis, causing skin darkening or settling as dark spots. Niacinamide exerts its brightening effect by inhibiting this melanosome transfer.
1. Production suppression: Tranexamic acid — suppresses plasmin activity and blocks stimulatory signals (such as prostaglandins) to melanocytes. Particularly effective for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma.
2. Reduction / Antioxidant: Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) — has the ability to convert oxidized melanin (dark) back to reduced form (lighter), and chelates the copper ions of tyrosinase to suppress enzyme activity.
3. Transfer inhibition: Niacinamide — inhibits the transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes. This is a unique mechanism that achieves brightening by "making melanin invisible" even when it is produced.
Since these three approaches target different points in the pathway, combining them can produce synergistic effects. Choose the optimal ingredients based on your type of dark spots (UV-induced, post-inflammatory, or melasma).
KAIAN develops skincare products based on scientific evidence.
Feel free to ask questions about ingredients and formulations.
