LEVEL 4
How to Choose a Serum
Beyond concentration, what professionals examine is the "grade" of raw materials. Even with the same ingredient name, efficacy can vary dramatically depending on the raw material manufacturer and level of purification.
"Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38" is a single ingredient name, but as a raw material, it exists in two forms: a premium-grade product from a major manufacturer (with clinical data showing a 117% increase in collagen synthesis, purity above 99%) and a generic copy from a secondary supplier (same INCI name but purity of 50-80%, no clinical data). Both appear under the same name on ingredient lists, making them indistinguishable to consumers.
The increasingly popular "Human Stem Cell Culture Supernatant" is a raw material with particularly high quality variation. Growth factor composition differs depending on the donor's age and health status, and quality fluctuates with culture conditions. Lot-to-lot reproducibility is low, and some of the growth factors present -- such as VEGF -- can have undesirable effects in excess.
In contrast, chemically synthesized peptides offer distinct advantages: their molecular structure is fully characterized, purity can be controlled (achieving 99%+), there is no lot-to-lot variability, and they contain no unwanted growth factors.
"Naturally derived" and "human-derived" may sound appealing, but from a quality control perspective, synthetic ingredients are often the more reliable choice.
For advanced consumers, the criterion for selecting a serum is not "natural versus synthetic" but rather "how reliably can the ingredient's effects be reproduced?"
KAIAN develops skincare products based on scientific evidence.
Feel free to ask questions about ingredients and formulations.
